The night was pitch dark, not a sound, sitting on the edge of a water hole mesmerized by the fireflies, myriads of individual lights that sparkled through the darkness, when a faintest rustle of the grass breaks the spell and jolts me back to the present. Yet again I am in the middle of the jungle at night with a small bunch of Jungle Spirits, all of us huddled together, all except one, exchanging furtive glances. Seeking confirmation that there is no panther or tiger lurking around, while I seek additional confirmation to ensure there are no real ‘Spirits’ around. My neck has suddenly developed the uncanny ability to do a 360-degree rotation like an owl. The rustle in the leaves was the Night Jar, active, flitting around in its silent ghost like fashion. Suddenly, a bone-chilling cry from a Jackal confirms the presence of a big cat close by. The jungle folklore claims that a jackal follows a big cat around to feed off its kill, at least that is what the forest guide tells us. Well, the doubts were confirmed when we caught those blue-green eyes in the flashlight. The leopard looked away and crossed the trail swishing his long tail nonchalantly.  The reason we are, where we should not be, at that particular hour is to catch a glimpse of the elusive cats at night in their most active form. I make a mental note to myself, I am not doing this again. I decide, no more night jungle sojourns for me. A few months later – “Déjà vu”

There is something about being amidst wilderness that makes me want go back to it a little too often. Curiosity about the inhabitants and the raw beauty of the landscape draws me in. Picture this, it’s the crack of dawn, you are in an open gypsy driving towards the forest, when the first rays of the sun pick out in vivid detail the outline of the forest. As you make your way through the trails outlined with sal, teak wood trees & an occasional ghost tree, a rush of cold & crisp air hits your face. The jungle is slowly waking up and coming alive with birdsongs. A brassy cry of a peacock echoes from the depths of the jungle. As you keep driving further you cross a lake with mist hanging in the air and crocodiles reposing on the banks. There is a colony of langurs swinging from one treetop to the other while a group of deer is munching on grass, glancing up occasionally when suddenly strident belling of an alarmed sambar deer breaks the momentary silence followed by a succession of similar calls. “The cat is on the move”, says the forest guide. A sense of anticipation envelops us. You start driving towards the direction of the call, you reach the spot from where the call was heard and you wait. After about 15-20 mins you get a fleeting glimpse of black stripes moving through the tall grass, not a sound and then the bellowing grunt. You are thinking to yourself the big cat is near, so near, when it decides to come out in full view. Silence prevails and all you hear is cameras clicking.

Picture 1 & 4 by @junglesofindia rest by yours truly

About a decade ago I received an e-mail from a friend with an attachment – a word file titled “Nine man-eaters & a rogue”.  Little did I know that this document will open up a new chapter in my life. It was compilation of stories on Jungles of India and Tigers by Kenneth Anderson. How, I lived the jungles of southern India through his stories. My fascination grew with every story as he described in vivid details the raw beauty, the diverse wildlife and the fiend man-eaters. Every story came with an “edge of the seat” climax. So when this friend proposed a trip to the jungles, I jumped on that offer and then there was no looking back! 

In my recent trip to the jungles of Tadoba I got a chance to witness a tigress make a kill. For a wildlife lover it is one of the most exhilarating experiences. Excitement, goosebumps to a barrage of emotions is what one goes through. 40 mins of stalking and 5 minutes to make the kill. The last 5 minutes, it was as if the whole jungle went absolutely silent, coming alive only after the hunt. It took me 25 odd safaris and several trips to different jungles across India, to spot my first tiger. The cat had always been elusive to me and I guess this made me appreciate the whole experience. Living & enjoying every moment in the wild, learning about the varied flora & fauna but most importantly appreciating that we still have a fraction of our jungles thriving. The most integral block of our ecosystem and sacred for some.

Picture 1 & 5 by @junglesofindia

While catching sight of a big cat is considered a major highlight of any trip to the Jungle but what stand out for me are moments like these. The burst of pure air making its way to your lungs as you enter the jungle, beholding orange hued dramatic panoramas at dawn and then again at dusk. Enjoying the morning cup of coffee under a canopy of bamboo while watching the Indian roller keeping a look out for its little ones against the circling crested hawk eagle or the grey hornbill calling out to his partner. The dash of colour these bewitching birds add to the usual green and brown canvas. Misty & freezing morning safaris in the winter and nights huddled around a campfire under the starlight sky, with potions to keep us warm. Exchanging notes with fellow travellers or listening to locals & their encounters with the wildlife and how they co-exist or simply looking out for shooting stars. Relishing the excellent farm to table meals, enjoying the tangy fruits & berries that grow in the wild. Waking up to conversations on what wildlife was found doing the rounds and sometimes even inside the lodge we were staying in!

Picture 5 by @junglesofindia

In one of my initial trips to the jungle we stayed at Taj Banjaar Tola, a mystical hideaway on the banks of Banjaar river in Kanha. This jungle lodge is located in the buffer zone of the forest and sees a lot of movement of wildlife in its grounds. On our last day, given that we were the only residents of the camp, the staff arranged for a beautiful dinner on the banks of the Banjaar river - the only time in my life that I could not concentrate on food nor did I revere the gleaming lanterns & the beautiful set up. For, my senses were focused elsewhere, ears concentrating on the minutest rustle or the distant crack of the dried twig, while eyes focused on the wild grass across the other bank because I was certain that we had company. We finished our dinner and made our way back to the tents calling it a night. Soon a heavy all-pervading silence enveloped the jungle around us. You can hear it, you feel it, you know it. It is the silence that heralds the unexpected and then far away from the depths of the forest I heard it roaring.

All those of you who are reading this, I urge you that once things get better and travel restrictions are lifted, take a trip to the Jungles of India. Reading about the jungles or even documentaries on television cannot do justice to the real experience. One must experience this first hand. Learn about our rich biodiversity, then engage into conversations around saving our forests & its inhabitants, making sure children are a part of these conversations. As urban dwellers we are far removed from the realty on the ground. We can try and raise our voices for or against governance and policies that effect our jungles. Education, using social media to raise awareness and supporting initiatives on ground are just few of the many things we could do collectively. We do not have to be a conservationist by vocation to bring about a change. This is Ground Zero when it comes to mitigating Climate Change.

Picture 1, 2, 3 & 5 by @junglesofindia

P.S - If you are a fellow wild life enthusiast do follow the Instagram page - @junglesofindia for more stories and pictures from the Indian Jungles. The page belongs to Saptarshi Bhattacharya whose pictures I have liberally used in this blog since I was around when he was clicking these pictures. :) The friend who introduced me to the Jungles and the most extraordinary stories from the wild.

Here are the links to the books by Kenneth Anderson and Jim Corbett if you would like to read. Please click on the titles.

Nine Man Eaters & One Rogue- Kenneth Anderson

Man-Eating Leopard of Rudraprayag - Jim Corbett

Tales From The Indian Jungle - Kenneth Anderson